Question:
After looking at many houses, we finally purchased one that offered the space, amenities and price we wanted. The problem? Half the rooms have painted wallpaper, which I suspect was recently done to facilitate the sale of the house. It looks fine now, with only a couple of loose corners showing. But how long before the finish begins to deteriorate or loosen? Can we paint again without causing deterioration of the underlying paper? And finally, do you have any tips for successfully removing the painted paper and retaining a paintable finish on the drywall? Thanks.
Answer:
Thanks for the question! Unfortunately, many people cut the same corner and paint over wallpaper. As long as the wallpaper is not peeling excessively, you should be fine. You can glue down the loose edges with wallpaper paste to prevent further peeling. The problem comes when you are trying to paint those walls again! Many times, the moisture from the fresh paint will cause the wallpaper to release or bubble in spots. Just how much is anybody’s guess!
I asked my friend and fellow NARI member Sid Lehrbaum of Surface Service (816) 361-5063, who specializes in wallpaper removal, what his experience has been. According to him, the best and safest course of action is to remove the wallpaper completely. It’s difficult but not impossible. I would highly recommend hiring a contractor who does nothing but wallpaper removal. Usually you can do it yourself by using hot water with a chemical wallpaper remover. The wallpaper may come off in layers, just be sure to keep all of the surfaces damp. It can be a lot of work, do be patient and let the chemicals do the work!
If the walls look ok and the seams aren’t very visible, you may be able to seal and paint the walls without removing the wallpaper. To do this, it’s important to use an oil-base primer sealer such as Kwal Paint’s “Cancel” Primer. Kilz works as well but is substantially thinner. Since this is an oil-based product, you will want to work in a well ventilated area and consider using a respirator. You may still experience some bubbling when applying the primer. If that happens, cut out the loose area and skim it over with drywall joint compound once the primer is dry (usually an hour or so). After you seal all the walls you are cleared for painting!
I hope this helps!
If you have any questions about this or any other Painting, Siding or Window topic, send me a message and I'll do my best to get you a quick, accurate answer. Thanks for reading!
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
The Scoop on Paint Warranties
We’ve all heard the claims of “lifetime” warranted paint or 25 year guarantees, etc. What does that really mean? Keep reading and find out!
So you think you need Lifetime paint, maybe your painter says you need it. Well, in my opinion most of the time, you don’t. Let me first say that the lifetime offerings from any manufacturer are of better quality than their other paints. You DO get a better paint out of the deal! The problem lies in the warranty. If you ever get the chance to actually READ the warranty, you’ll see that it only covers peeling and blistering caused by the failure of the product.
Here’s a little secret: The product almost NEVER FAILS! With modern manufacturing techniques and quality control, there is almost no chance of defective paint coming from the factory. They are doing a great job! When paint peels, blisters or fails in general, its usually a preparation problem or maybe even a water infiltration issue. These conditions are not covered by any paint warranty whatsoever and who can blame them? There are all sorts of painters out there installing their product. There are no training requirements or licensing needed to be a painter.
If you think you have a warranty claim, you will need to contact the store where the paint was purchased. You may also need to keep the original receipts or get in touch with your painter (if you can still find them!). The paint store will then send out a representative to look over the problem. The will give you their honest opinion of what went wrong. Don’t be surprised if he blames the painter! If you do qualify for a warranty claim, the warranty only covers the replacement of the product, NOT the labor! They will give you some paint, but you are on your own after that.
Also note that paint warranties generally do not cover fading of their product. We all know that paint fades, no matter who puts it on or what they use, it will fade. Fading isn’t considered a “failure” under the warranty. No matter what, you should plan to paint your home every 5-7 years in the Midwest. There’s just no other way around it. If that is the typical paint life, why spend the extra money on the lifetime product? They are banking on people moving every 5 years. The warranty is not transferable!
Lifetime paint generally costs the painter around $42 per gallon. The next step down is usually around $24 per gallon. That’s a difference of $18 per gallon. Take that times the average house needing 32 gallons of paint and you’re looking at a difference of $576! That doesn’t include sales tax or markup for the painter!
The bottom line here is this: do not hesitate to use the next step down from lifetime when it comes to exterior paint. Just make sure you or your painter uses 100% Acrylic Latex. Make sure your painter knows what he is doing when it comes to preparation and product application. Don’t be afraid to pay a higher price to use a reputable painter.
So you think you need Lifetime paint, maybe your painter says you need it. Well, in my opinion most of the time, you don’t. Let me first say that the lifetime offerings from any manufacturer are of better quality than their other paints. You DO get a better paint out of the deal! The problem lies in the warranty. If you ever get the chance to actually READ the warranty, you’ll see that it only covers peeling and blistering caused by the failure of the product.
Here’s a little secret: The product almost NEVER FAILS! With modern manufacturing techniques and quality control, there is almost no chance of defective paint coming from the factory. They are doing a great job! When paint peels, blisters or fails in general, its usually a preparation problem or maybe even a water infiltration issue. These conditions are not covered by any paint warranty whatsoever and who can blame them? There are all sorts of painters out there installing their product. There are no training requirements or licensing needed to be a painter.
If you think you have a warranty claim, you will need to contact the store where the paint was purchased. You may also need to keep the original receipts or get in touch with your painter (if you can still find them!). The paint store will then send out a representative to look over the problem. The will give you their honest opinion of what went wrong. Don’t be surprised if he blames the painter! If you do qualify for a warranty claim, the warranty only covers the replacement of the product, NOT the labor! They will give you some paint, but you are on your own after that.
Also note that paint warranties generally do not cover fading of their product. We all know that paint fades, no matter who puts it on or what they use, it will fade. Fading isn’t considered a “failure” under the warranty. No matter what, you should plan to paint your home every 5-7 years in the Midwest. There’s just no other way around it. If that is the typical paint life, why spend the extra money on the lifetime product? They are banking on people moving every 5 years. The warranty is not transferable!
Lifetime paint generally costs the painter around $42 per gallon. The next step down is usually around $24 per gallon. That’s a difference of $18 per gallon. Take that times the average house needing 32 gallons of paint and you’re looking at a difference of $576! That doesn’t include sales tax or markup for the painter!
The bottom line here is this: do not hesitate to use the next step down from lifetime when it comes to exterior paint. Just make sure you or your painter uses 100% Acrylic Latex. Make sure your painter knows what he is doing when it comes to preparation and product application. Don’t be afraid to pay a higher price to use a reputable painter.
Be Careful Hiring your Painter!
As many of you know, I’ve been in the painting and home repair business for more than 15 years, actually closer to 20. I learned from the beginning that if you do the job right at a fair price, the good word will spread. For the most part, that’s still true. There are quite a few good, reliable painters out there.
We also know that these “tough times” have been especially hard on the construction sector of the economy. People can’t afford to buy new homes; builders can’t sell them and can’t build more, subcontractors and suppliers also take a hit as well. What do these subcontractors do? They start their own company!
I have seen more new “painting companies” trucks, signs advertisements this year than I ever have before. Where do they come from? Who knows?!? The important question should be: “Where will they be next year?” Unfortunately there is no licensing requirement to be a painting contractor. There are no hard and fast rules on how to do the work and how long you should stand behind your work. There are companies out there who weren’t in business last year, at least under their current name, that are offering 5-year warranties on their work. That’s all good and fine if you can find them when there is a problem.
Yes, I actually saw THIS truck in front of a home! I'm sure he does a great job and I'll bet he's cheap!
How can you protect yourself from these fly by night companies?
1: Do a little research! Check them out with the Better Business Bureau. They keep track of many companies, whether they are members or not. Google them! Not only the company name, but the owner’s name as well. Did you know there is a local painting contractor who is a registered sex offender right here in Johnson County? Do they have a website? How about a physical address?
2: Read their warranty. I’m not talking about the paint warranty, but the warranty on their workmanship. What will they do for you in the event of a claim? Will there be any additional charges involved?
3: Get a comprehensive proposal from them. A number written on a photocopied piece of paper doesn’t tell you squat! A good proposal should be tailored to your specific project. What process do they go through to paint your home? Power washing, scraping, caulking, priming? Make sure they specify what materials they are using including caulk, primer and paint. You can never get too much information!
4: Demand references! They should offer them with every bid, but sometimes you need to ask for them. No only should you call some of them, drive by and check out the work. Sometimes a customer is happy with the work while the work is substandard. Of course they won’t put people on their reference list that aren’t happy! Just check for yourself.
5: Make sure they are INSURED!!!! Demand a copy of their insurance proof. Not only should they carry liability insurance, but they should also carry worker’s compensation insurance. If they don’t have work comp, a person can sue you or your insurance company if they are injured on your property. Make sure their liability insurance limits are high enough to replace your home and your contents. If you have a $300,000 home and they accidentally burn it to the ground, their measly $100,000 policy is not going to help you.
6: Make sure they are using EMPLOYEES and not subcontractors. Employees are covered under the contractor’s work comp insurance, subs are not. If they insist on using subcontractors, make sure the subcontractor has work comp insurance. Do not hesitate to call their agent to verify the information. It is your responsibility to cover yourself here.
7: Ask your friends and family who they used. Ask someone you trust and whose opinion you respect. If your friends are picky and they are happy with their painter, you have a much better chance of getting the right contractor for the job.
8: Do NOT give them any money up front! A reputable painter had accounts at their suppliers and keeps money around for payroll. When I paint most homes, I don’t receive a dime until the job is done. I won’t even get the paint bill until after the job is done. If you feel compelled to pay a deposit, only do so on the day they start the job. Taking a deposit to “guarantee a spot on the schedule” is a total crock of excrement!
SPREAD THE WORD! If you have a company that you are happy with, don’t hesitate to tell your friends. Save them from hiring one of these fly by night companies! If you are looking for a reliable painter who does top notch work for a fair price, please visit my website at: http://www.paintproinc.net/
We also know that these “tough times” have been especially hard on the construction sector of the economy. People can’t afford to buy new homes; builders can’t sell them and can’t build more, subcontractors and suppliers also take a hit as well. What do these subcontractors do? They start their own company!
I have seen more new “painting companies” trucks, signs advertisements this year than I ever have before. Where do they come from? Who knows?!? The important question should be: “Where will they be next year?” Unfortunately there is no licensing requirement to be a painting contractor. There are no hard and fast rules on how to do the work and how long you should stand behind your work. There are companies out there who weren’t in business last year, at least under their current name, that are offering 5-year warranties on their work. That’s all good and fine if you can find them when there is a problem.
Yes, I actually saw THIS truck in front of a home! I'm sure he does a great job and I'll bet he's cheap!
1: Do a little research! Check them out with the Better Business Bureau. They keep track of many companies, whether they are members or not. Google them! Not only the company name, but the owner’s name as well. Did you know there is a local painting contractor who is a registered sex offender right here in Johnson County? Do they have a website? How about a physical address?
2: Read their warranty. I’m not talking about the paint warranty, but the warranty on their workmanship. What will they do for you in the event of a claim? Will there be any additional charges involved?
3: Get a comprehensive proposal from them. A number written on a photocopied piece of paper doesn’t tell you squat! A good proposal should be tailored to your specific project. What process do they go through to paint your home? Power washing, scraping, caulking, priming? Make sure they specify what materials they are using including caulk, primer and paint. You can never get too much information!
4: Demand references! They should offer them with every bid, but sometimes you need to ask for them. No only should you call some of them, drive by and check out the work. Sometimes a customer is happy with the work while the work is substandard. Of course they won’t put people on their reference list that aren’t happy! Just check for yourself.
5: Make sure they are INSURED!!!! Demand a copy of their insurance proof. Not only should they carry liability insurance, but they should also carry worker’s compensation insurance. If they don’t have work comp, a person can sue you or your insurance company if they are injured on your property. Make sure their liability insurance limits are high enough to replace your home and your contents. If you have a $300,000 home and they accidentally burn it to the ground, their measly $100,000 policy is not going to help you.
6: Make sure they are using EMPLOYEES and not subcontractors. Employees are covered under the contractor’s work comp insurance, subs are not. If they insist on using subcontractors, make sure the subcontractor has work comp insurance. Do not hesitate to call their agent to verify the information. It is your responsibility to cover yourself here.
7: Ask your friends and family who they used. Ask someone you trust and whose opinion you respect. If your friends are picky and they are happy with their painter, you have a much better chance of getting the right contractor for the job.
8: Do NOT give them any money up front! A reputable painter had accounts at their suppliers and keeps money around for payroll. When I paint most homes, I don’t receive a dime until the job is done. I won’t even get the paint bill until after the job is done. If you feel compelled to pay a deposit, only do so on the day they start the job. Taking a deposit to “guarantee a spot on the schedule” is a total crock of excrement!
SPREAD THE WORD! If you have a company that you are happy with, don’t hesitate to tell your friends. Save them from hiring one of these fly by night companies! If you are looking for a reliable painter who does top notch work for a fair price, please visit my website at: http://www.paintproinc.net/
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Melting Vinyl Siding
Yet Another Reason to Avoid Vinyl Siding!
Ever hear of vinyl siding on a home MELTING??? Sure, if you have a fire or your grill too close you would expect it, right?
This phenomenon came to my attention through NARI (National Association of the Remodeling Industry) discussion boards on LinkedIn. A homeowner was having problems with their siding “melting” on the home. It looked something like this:

This phenomenon came to my attention through NARI (National Association of the Remodeling Industry) discussion boards on LinkedIn. A homeowner was having problems with their siding “melting” on the home. It looked something like this:


We all know it gets hot in the summer, but is it really hot enough to melt vinyl siding? What if I told you it happened in the WINTER! It just doesn’t seem likely, does it? Maybe it was vandalism, improper installation or something else.
Would you believe the damage was caused by the neighbor’s new energy efficient windows? Yep, the windows were causing the problem!
These new windows usually feature a LowE coating that reflect the sun’s light as well as the heat. This is what helps make these windows efficient and your energy bills manageable. On a bright, sunny day, the windows can act like a magnifying glass and focus the intense light on the siding. This focused light creates a lot of heat! Remember frying ant with a magnifying glass last week…I mean when we were young? It’s the same effect.
Check out the pictures below, the temperature readings were made in December!


The top picture shows the surface temperature of the siding where the neighbor’s window is reflecting the light. 185 DEGREES! The one on the bottom shows the actual ambient air temperature of 24 degrees. The date on the pictures is December 20th.
Ok, so we know what the problem is, now what’s the solution? Well, you can ask the neighbor to change his windows, good luck on that one! Your best bet is to plant a bush or tree on that location. Really! You may be able to use a higher quality thicker vinyl siding, but there is still no guarantee it won’t melt. Did you know that these problems are NOT covered under factory warranties? Nope, it’s not their fault!
If you are considering installing vinyl siding on your home, keep this problem in mind. Chances are it won’t happen to you, but you never know. One type of siding that will NOT ever melt is fiber cement siding. Coincidentally, my company just happens to install it! James Hardie siding is the leader in the Fiber Cement Siding Industry. It’s siding has a 50 year warranty. If you choose the pre-finished Color Plus product, it is also covered by a 15 year finish warranty. It will far outperform vinyl or steel when it comes to temperature extremes and hail damage. It will never rot, termites won’t touch it and neither will woodpeckers! If you think this siding is right for you, check out my company's website: Paint Pro, Inc.
Last, but not least: If you get vinyl siding, this may happen to you!
Labels:
Fiber Cement Siding,
James Hardie,
Melting,
Vinyl Siding
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